Day Twenty Four - Home Bound

Saturday, August 13th - The Forty Three Hour Day

Our last day in paradise.  Flight doesn't leave until 10pm so at least our last day was a long day.  And longer than you think.  Given the time change between Fiji and California, it will take 43 hours to get from 12:01AM Saturday morning to 11:59PM Saturday night.  The longest day of our lives, and we mean that literally.  Packed in the AM.  Spent the late morning and early afternoon by the beach.  Had to check out at 11AM so rented a room for an hour to shower. 

(Hour 15) Visited the Kula Eco Park on our way to Nadi.  It was surprisingly wonderful!  The brochure has not done this place justice.  They built the park into the rainforest so it was a beautiful setting.  All of the animals in the park are those that are indigenous to Fiji.  They let us feed the turtles and play with the snakes and iguanas.  We hope this place receives enough funding to stay open.

(Hour 17) Made our way to the airport with ease.  Sat around for hours, shopped a little.  The international terminal was overflowing - not a seat available anywhere.  Who knew all of these people were on our flight?!  Flew a 747-400 back to LA.  This is one massive plane.  Lucked out and had seats upstairs.  (Hour 22) Placed ourselves in a Drammamine coma for the night - the ensuing sleep helped pass the hours and ease the realization that our journey was coming to an end, officially.  Glad we have a few days with Dad & Cheri before its really over.  Visits with them always refresh the soul.

(Hour 32) Immigration in LA is an absolute nightmare.  Not really sure why but it took forever.  Thought we'd be bored on our three hour layover - it proved just enough time to pass through customs and get checked into our flight back to San Jose.  Oh, baggage fees - how we loath thee.  So good to see Dad and Cheri.  (Hour 39) Dinner on the back deck - one of our favorite places.  Life is good - no, life is great. :)

Day Twenty Three - Korolevu, Fiji

Friday, August 12th - SHARK DIVE!

Yes, we did it!  Yes, we’re okay!  And yes, it was worth it!  Prior to leaving for our honeymoon, Rick had learned of a company that features a shark feeding dive off the Coral Coast only a half hour from where we were staying.  The dive has the potential of exposing you to eight different species of shark, including Bull Sharks and, on occasion, Tiger Sharks.  Given Rick’s obsession of this fine tuned hunter, this was a must do.  Sorry moms. 

The smell of chum on board the boat was overwhelming - at least six large garbage cans full strapped to the top of the boat.  The company acquires its chum from local seafood factories.  Not only does this relationship lower the expense of having to buy chum but it has the added benefit of recycling the fish waste back into the food chain rather than leaving it to rot in a dump.  As soon as we arrived at the dive site, the boat was surrounded by Remora Fish, more commonly known as Sucker Fish.  More than we’ve ever seen.  If you aren’t sure what Sucker Fish are, they can be found stuck to the sides of sharks, whales and other large sea creatures including, as we later learned, the garbage cans used to carry the chum to the ocean floor. 

Immediately upon arriving to the dive site, the fish feeders started throwing chum in the water.  During the brief, we learned that it was Tiger season but Tiger Sharks usually only make an appearance once a week.  We suited up and in we went.  The chum had already attracted more large fish species than we could count.  Before we were even placed into position at the underwater ‘arena,’ Tawny Nurse Sharks were busy trying to break into the garbage can of chum.  This is when Amanda fell in love with a 350 pound, 6 foot Grouper!  Unreal!  Rick thought it was rock until its enormous mouth opened for a fish head – the same fish heads being fed to the sharks.  When he pointed it out to Amanda, he could actually hear her gasp, “Oh my god!”  As soon as the feeders released the chum, sharks and fish of all species swarmed.  It wasn’t five minutes before a 16 foot Tiger Shark made her appearance.  The fish paid no mind but the Bull Sharks exited and hung to the perimeter while the Tiger was feeding.  What was even more impressive than seeing these beautiful creatures in the wild was the way the ‘shark whisperer’ handled the Tiger - like any person with their beloved dog.  Directing it by grabbing its nose, kissing it, rubbing its back – it was beautiful.  The feeding continued after we began our ascent.  Best – safety – stop – EVER!

The second dive was similar to the first but at a different arena and the Tiger did not join us for this feeding.  Needless to say, the Bull Sharks were much more visible this time.  It was so incredible to see masses of sharks altogether like this.  Not one here and there, but upwards of thirty to forty sharks at any given moment, and thousands of fish in all shapes and sizes – including, of course, Amanda’s favorite, the grouper.  Again, the feeding continued after we began our ascent, and again – best – safety – stop – EVER! 

During the debrief, the crew shared with us their familiarity with the sea life in this area.  They actually know the sharks by name - referring to all of them as females.  One of the Tigers, Lady Joyce, is named after one of our fellow divers on board.  She is an 88 year old woman from New Zealand or Australia (not sure which) who dives with them three times a week for three months a year.  She began diving at the ripe age of 76.  This particular Tiger Shark made her first appearance in Beqa while Joyce was diving so the crew deemed it Lady Joyce.  You know you’re something special when locals on a foreign island name a Tiger Shark after you!

After the dive, we both crashed - slight suspicion that Amanda was dehydrated.  But maybe it was just all the excitement!  Went to dinner at Sazanami, a Hibachi Restaurant at the resort – except they don’t call it hibachi here, they call it teppanyaki.  Rick made an 8:30 reservation so by mid-meal, we were the only ones in the restaurant.  The manager of the restaurant introduced himself while we were enjoying tempura bananas covered in almonds and the most decadent mango sorbet known to man.  He, along with the entire staff, sang us the Fijian farewell song Isa Lei.  It was so touching.  The song was composed by native Fijians and can be sung to represent love, loss, joy, sorrow, celebration - any number of emotions.  For us it was a warm farewell.  Absolutely amazing.  Amanda later learned that Rick had set this up while making the reservation – sneaky, sneaky!   

Walked home along the beach.  Found an empty hammock and laughed ourselves to tears trying to get into it.  Wish we could have slept there all night.  After climbing our way out, Rick noticed our frog from last night’s international frog race!  Well, we can’t confirm that it was actually Black Stallion but we’re choosing to believe it was!  So, we were able to get Amanda’s winning frog picture after all!  Frogs are so, so cool.  We’ve equated them to sea turtles on the coolness scale – right up there with sharks, owls, and giraffes.

Our flight back home doesn’t leave until 10pm tomorrow night so we decided to pack in the AM.  Off to bed it was, feeling more than satisfied with a honeymoon that was just so perfectly us.    

Aqua-Trek Beqa Shark Dive

Fiji Shark Marine Reserve

Day Twenty Two - Korolevu, Fiji

Thursday, August 11th

Another day in paradise. :)  Woke leisurely.  Followed breakfast with some great snorkeling.  The coral reef creates a wall in front of the resort and because of this, the waves don't actually break on shore, they break at the wall.  During low tide, we are able to walk 200 yards to this wall.  During high tide, the water comes all the way to the beach.  We snorkeled during high tide but it is still very shallow.  Mistook a Sea Cucumber for a piece of sea vegetation.  Amanda jumped eight feet out of water when she noticed the 'head' of the sea cucumber eating sand!  Took her 30 seconds to catch her feet as she slipped and tripped over the coral rocks.  Rick was very amused.  Found a cool drop off with schools and schools of big fish only 20 yards from the shore.  Note: snorkeling is a lot more fun when done with few people around as clumsy splashes scare the fish away. 

Warmed ourselves by the pool after snorkeling and decided to spend the afternoon in the town 30k away called Sigatoka.  Busy little town.  Definitely worth the trip.  There is an animal park - only one in Fiji.  Didn't have time to visit today but crossing our fingers for Saturday.  Everyone thought we were Australian.  And when we shared that we are American the next question inevitably is, "How's Obama?!"  Every time, without fail!  It is remarkable how well informed foreigners are of our politics and history.  Remarkable and embarrassing.

Caught sunset.  First country in the world to see the new day and the first to see it end.  Made reservations for the Tex Mex Buffet.  Note: If you do not have reservations, you are limited to bar food or room service so best not to wing dinner at the Warwick Fiji.  No vegetarian options (anyone surprised?!) but we were able to wing a veggie fajita by stealing vegetables from around the buffet and asking the live station to cook them instead of meat.  It was awesome.  Almost as good as Rick's tacos - almost. ;)

Tonight, Amanda surprised Rick.  There was a frog race at the Hibiscus Cafe.  Each frog had a name and represented a country.  These frogs were auctioned off to the crowd.  The 'owners' of the first three frogs to exit the circle won a little money and the remaining funds are given to an all boys school on the island.  So, for the first time, Amanda gambled.  The DJ had a lot of fun with us and an older Aussie couple sitting directly behind us.  Had the whole crowd participating in our bidding war!  We won - albeit with the help of the wife who had to hold her husbands hands down!  Our frog's name was Black Stallion and he represented Fiji (how appropriate)!  Black Stallion was marked with a #10.  At the buzzer we started cheering for our little guy and low and behold, he was the third one out of the ring!  Earned back most of what we bid so Amanda is one for one with gambling.  She thinks that is a pretty good place to end her gambling career.  Didn't manage to get a picture with Black Stallion before they were released back into the wild but were very glad to learn that these frogs are actually free and not someones pet.  Then participated in a slightly risque beer drinking competition with male and female pairs.  The objective of this competition is to guzzle a beer from between your lady's legs.  First one done, wins!  Rules: no spilling and no hands!  It was a photo finish but Rick placed second.

Update:  Amanda still cannot say mauruuru but she has a secure grasp of BULA!

Save the Frogs

Day Twenty One - Korolevu, Fiji

Wednesday, August 10th - Coral Coast Dive

Woke to a noise in the bathroom and found a crab in our shower!  Amanda saw to it that he returned home safely of course.  It was a rainy morning which made us even more stoked we had planned our dive for today!  So we were able to make use of the morning despite the wet weather.  Fijian people live by 'Fiji time' and that is, they'll get to it when they get to it - no worries, no hurry.  This nonchalant attitude was ever present with the dive company today.  But in a way it was a good thing because it required more of us - putting that certification to use!  Fiji is home to more than a quarter of the worlds reefs and is known for its spectacular soft coral. 

Our first dive, White Wall, focused on both of these qualities.  So many different fish, so many different types of coral, so many colors.  We had a guest appearance by a Spotted Eagle Ray and a Sixgill Shark.  They paid no mind to us but we were fascinated by them!  The most breathtaking moment of the dive came near the end.  We came upon a coral wall, a massive coral wall from top to bottom in a soft pink coral - looked as soft as feathers.  The whole wall was dancing in the drift.  As far as the eye could see in any direction - unbelievable. 

Our second dive was called Coral Garden.  We were exposed to more of Fiji's beautiful coral reef and had the distinct pleasure of swimming with sea turtles!  These are, bar none, Amanda's absolute favorite.  Nothing else quite like them underwater.  So unique.  There's an innocence to them.  Only one in one thousand make it to adulthood so when you see one of these survivalist beauties, savor that moment.  We also encountered two Whitetip Reef Sharks.  They always seem to be moving with such purpose - as if they are late for something.

We dove with two others.  Both on vacation from Australia with their families.  Learned a lot more about life in the down under which has only further sparked our desire to spend time traveling Australia.  Made an addition to our bucket list - diving the Great Barrier Reef.  Fiji is a hot spot for Aussies on vacation - much like the Caribbean for Americans.  Very few Americans here. 

Spent the afternoon enjoying the little bit of sun that made an appearance.  Defined ourselves as true resort goers by swimming up to the pool bar.  Why is it so much more fun to sit at a bar while in a pool?!  You're more susceptible to a chill but yet, it doesn't seem to matter.

Used our free themed buffet dinner voucher for Asian night.  Turned out to be a wise choice!  Amanda was able to enjoy stir fry veggies for the first time since we left the states!  Oddly enough, despite the nature rich environments of Tahiti, NZ, and Fiji - none of these places are particularly vegetarian friendly.  Had to rely on fish in Tahiti.  NZ was gluten-free friendly but those Kiwis love their meat.  And, so far, Fiji hasn't proved to be any better.  Needless to say, Amanda was stoked for some stir fry veggies and rice!  Felt like home!

Day Twenty - Korolevu, Fiji

Tuesday, August 9th - City of Suva

Took the morning to live life resort style (buffet breakfast, sit poolside, research diving, game of life size chess - Rick will tell you he won but don't listen - game board was improperly set - rematch to follow!) and used the afternoon to see Fiji.  Left the resort just in time for the rain, not just any rain - rainforest rain, so city walking was a perfect afternoon activity.  As small as Viti Levu looks on a map, all the major areas are rather far apart!  We're near two hours southeast of Nadi and it is almost equally as far to Suva but in the opposite direction.  Suva came recommended for its authentic Indian cuisine and its cheap shopping so northeast it was!  Rick's description of Suva - NYC Fijian style!  Crowded streets, impatient drivers, small overpacked shops, same merchandise in every window, daring jaywalkers everywhere, mildly impersonal until you start a conversation - a heartbeat all its own.  Biggest differences between Suva and NYC: lacks the same diversity and it is drenched in Indian culture!  The music, the food, the saris, the jewelry - absolute decadence.  It is in moments like these that we realize just how poorly educated we are on the history of so many places in the world.  Note: must research Fijian history.  We had hoped to find a tourist section of this Fijian city but our efforts were fruitless so we browsed the shops we felt comfortable entering to see what Fijian people are into. 

Sought out a restaurant that came highly recommended by our new Indian friend from NZ - Curry House - and actually found it!  Much to our surprise, however, they did not have Veggie Korma or any Veggie Curry for that matter.  This is a first.  We are visiting an island that has strong ties to India and this is the only time we've been to an Indian restaurant anywhere that does not have a vegetarian curry dish!  Bizarre.  Amanda was craving curry so we continued our hunt and found a delicious Indian restaurant called Maya Dhaba.  Stoked we decided to keep looking because Rick said it was the best Tikki Masala he's ever had!  Got ourselves lost trying to leave Suva - things look a lot different in the dark!  Finally found our way and back through the rainforest we went keeping a heavy lookout for any number of stray animals and those damn speed humps!

Rick's favorite moment of the day (a HAHA moment):  Driving here is much like in Costa Rica, one lane in both directions, so if you're stuck behind a slug, you're only refuge is to 'overtake' them.  There isn't much traffic so its no big deal BUT some people are a little too aggressive.  Someone trying to overtake us and the stinky truck infront of us realized her error when it was too late and had to cut us off to dodge oncoming traffic - ass.  Soon as the traffic past, this individual continued on her way by overtaking the truck.  Not five minutes later, this same person was pulled over by two Fijian cops, one of which was holding a radar gun!  Rick was very amused!  Not often does one get to witness immediate karma but sure feels satisfying when you do!

Myth Busted:  Service staff is solely motivated by tips.  We've received the friendliest service over the past few weeks in three countries that do not practice/encourage tipping.  (An argument in favor of socialism!)
Myth Confirmed:  Taxi drivers drive like (insert adjective of choice) EVERYWHERE!

Day Nineteen - Korolevu, Fiji

Monday, August 8th - Warwick Resort & Spa

BULA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (A popular Fijian greeting used by everyone and often hollered at the top of their lungs!)

Today was a relaxing day of healing.  Amanda, unfortunately, did not sleep off the disease so we took the day to recoup.  Rick brought Amanda breakfast in bed so she could sleep, sleep, sleep.  Switched into our ocean view room after Amanda had a stern conversation with the front desk.  HUGE improvement.  Corner unit - room is great - view is gorgeous!  Walked the resort.  So much to do!  Families everywhere.  More culture here in one afternoon then we could find during our five days in Bora Bora.  Wanted to see what the real Fiji looked like - the Fiji outside resort walls and with the lights on this time so went for a little drive around the Coral Coast. 

Moments of note during our drive:  So many stray dogs - reminds us a lot of Costa Rica - but the dogs look slightly healthier, correction, meatier.  Cows, horses, and pigs, all with harnesses but roaming freely.  Fijians of all ages outside playing.  Couldn't tell if it was rugby or soccer without staring but definitely outside involved in sport.  Each little cluster of houses (i.e. village of sorts) had children playing in the center.  We haven't yet found a 'convenience' store or food market that allows you inside.  Instead you have to ask the person behind the bars to fetch you your goods - mildly intimidating.  Definitely secures our decision to visit the major city of Suva early in our stay.  Roads are terrible.  Pot holes large enough to eat grown men.  And the speed humps!  The biggest we've ever seen!  When they say 20kph - they mean it!  Roads overgrown with vegetation.  Stunning.  The humidity reminds us of home and Rick's comfort level tells us that this is definitely the warmest place we've visited so far.  Amanda is stoked!  Rick is sweating. 

Going to postpone our dive planned for tomorrow until later in the week in hopes that Amanda will heal enough by then.  Dinner on our porch and enjoyed a Fijian show at the Hibiscus Club.  A young Fijian pulled us from our seats during the interactive portion and sure glad he did!  He was no more than twelve in age and more full of life than most people we know! 

Warwick Resort & Spa - Korolevu, Fiji

Day Eighteen - Car/Airport, NZ

Sunday, August 7th - LONGEST Day of Travel

Woke at 3AM for a five and a half hour drive to Christchurch Airport clear across the other side of the South Island for a 1PM flight.  Amanda is now sick, very sick.  We're grateful for the doctor giving us two sets of antibiotics for an nuisssance such as this.  Packed and out the door by 5AM.  We're getting very good at packing.  Each time we pack we find we have more room in our bags - room that was certainly not there when we left the states.  Or we're accidently leaving stuff behind everywhere we go - either way!  The rain has continued into today. 

An hour and half before we saw the first signs of life - another car.  Nearly three hours before we found an open gas station, an open anything.  Someone must have been watching out for us because the young man working the shop mentioned that Arther Pass was closed to all cars without chains due to heavy snowfall and may be closed to all soon if the snow keeps coming down the way it is.  Neither of us can remember mentioning to this young man where we were headed but how did he know?  Or was it just a coincidence that he mentioned it?  That's some guardian angel type stuff!  And, yes, we needed to cross Arther Pass to get to Christchurch.  Lucky for us, Christchurch, like other places in NZ, was not one of the places with only one way in and one way out.  Unlucky for us, the other pass, Lewis Pass, was at least an hour and a half (150+ kilometers) out of the way.  Uh oh.  Obviously, we opted for Lewis Pass even though it was likely we wouldn't make our flight and started planning for as much.  So, we white knuckled our way across NZ, in and out of rain and snow depending on the altitude, and made it to Hertz at Christchurch by 11:35 - go Amanda! 

Hustled our way into the airport only to find out that our flight had been ...... CANCELED.  Apparently, the plane was still at Nadi Airport in Fiji because it needed repair and the crew member who can complete this repair is sick.  Yes, sick.  And yes, we asked the same question - there is only ONE person who can fix this problem?  We were given an 0800 number but all they said is 'call back at 2pm for an update'.  A while later an announcement was made about the Air Pacific once a week flight to Fiji.  Flight was rescheduled for 7:30PM that night and we were given vouchers for food -we've grown to resent vouchers (as if $24 in food at an airport will compensate for half a day lost in Fiji) but we took them and at least got ourselves food for the looooong wait.  Once beyond security, Amanda fell asleep (anyone surprised?) and Rick ventured around.  Plane did not make its appearance until 7:30PM so, needless to say, we weren't boarded until 8PM.  Once on the plane, the captain made an announcement that started with 'It's just been one of those days...' - uuuugh - and proceeded to explain to us that during the preflight inspection, the handle on a fire extinguisher had broken and we had to wait until a replacement arrived before we could take off.  It was after 9PM before we were airborn and just before 1AM when we landed in Nadi. 

After our conversations with our new friends who had just been to the Warwick at Fiji, we had made the decision to rent a car as it seemed everything we were going to want to do required driving.  We proceded to AVIS, which much to our surprise was still open, for our car.  It wasn't until after inspecting and packing the car that we noticed that the passenger's seat belt in the first car was broken so they had to switch out the vehicle.  They did not have any compact size cars left so they had to upgrade the vehicle but unlike in the states, they do not do this for free.  They are planning to drive out to the Warwick to switch it as soon as a compact becomes available - easily an hour and half drive - but as long as they aren't making us drive back (or pay more) then fine.  Drove to Warwick.  Easy drive - only one road around the entire island.  You literally cannot get lost - you can just take the long way.  Can't wait to see this place with the lights on!  In the dark, it isn't more than a poorly maintained road, a ton of potholes, and a lot of stray animals (dogs, cats, cows, horses, etc.)  Arrived at Warwick just before 4AM but the oceanview room we paid for was not yet available (can this day just end?!?!) so they were going to have to switch us in the morning.  Did not unpack more than just our toothbrushes.  After our 23 hour travel day we had hoped for a refreshing face wash but the hot water had stopped working (of course) so made it quick and into jammies.  Given the length of our travel and the breeze it has been so far, we were due for a day such as this.  So we'll take it and wave it goodbye as we fall asleep. :)

Myth Confirmed:  Amanda can fall asleep anywhere!

Day Seventeen - Franz Joseph, NZ

Saturday, August 6th - Glacier Hike

Rick's description - INTENSE.  Amanda's description - COLD, but amazing.  Today we hiked Franz Josef Glacier.  Franz Josef Glacier is the most accessible of the 2,500 glaciers in New Zealand and one of few glaciers that is actually experiencing a period of growth rather than recession.  Remember when Rick mentioned how lucky we'd been with weather?  Well, that came to an end today!  Franz Josef Glacier is at the foot of a New Zealand rainforest.  Needless to say, they receive a lot of rain.  And when it rains, it really, really rains.  We woke at 5AM to pounding on the rooftop of our hotel and it - did - not - stop.  Luckily, these companise are well equipped for any type of weather so it did not cancel our trip.  Upon arrival to the store, we were suited up in all types of rain gear - boots, jacket, pants, hat and gloves.  This was one of the those 'one size fits all' situations and unfortunately for us, the gear appeared to fit best on several of our 6'5" hiking companions!  But aside from Amanda's toes, it did keep us dry.  We hiked the first hour through a rainforest and up the glacier valley.  The rest of the day, roughly six more hours, were spent on the ice.  Just before ascending the ice, we put to use the crampons given to us back at the shop.  At first, we weren't confident these funny looking cleats would provide us the sure footing we were hoping for but WOW!  No matter the surface, no matter the slope, these little diggers sure did dig!  The glacier was incredible.  Recent degeneration of the valley walls caused the surface of the glacier to be dusty but the tunnels and caves were as blue as the waters in Tahiti.  We climbed 650 meters on the glacier surface, past where the helicopters land, in the pouring rain the entire time.  Surprisingly, the descent was not as challenging as one may think given the climb and it sent blood toward the toes which warmed things up nicely!

On our trek back down the glacier, we came into conversation with a couple from Pasadena who appear to share the same life path as us.  They had arrived in New Zealand from the Warwick in Fiji - the same hotel we are off to tomorrow.  They were married a week after us and share the same love of travel and adventure.  Shantelle works as a civil justice attorney and social worker who specializes in protecting the rights of students with special needs in the Los Angeles area.  Her company is nonprofit and can therefore target anyone guilty of breaking educational law.  Needless to say, she and Amanda had A LOT to talk about.  Rick and Adel had their fair share in common as well possessing the same qualities that balance their passionate, energizer bunny wives.  They even had the same wedding band - weird!  We had dinner with them at a phenomenal Indian restaurant in the town of Franz Josef and joined them at the Glacier Hot Pools.  Amazing.  Definitely a couple we hope to keep in touch with for years to come.

Tomorrow we depart for Fiji.  Sad to be leaving New Zealand but especially looking forward to some warm sun after these frigid days in glacier country.

Glacier Country

Franz Josef Glacier

Day Sixteen - Fox Glacier, NZ

Friday, August 5th - Down and Out

So, Rick has strep. Or at least all of the signs to suggest strep - only a swab test can confirm but they are medicating him for the worst.  Can't dive sick and we must dive so he must heal, asap!  Overall he actually felt better this morning.  We still called the glaciers guides to see if we could postpone our hike until tomorrow, which was no problem because everyone in New Zealand is so kind and accommodating.  So, instead we went to the local clinic.  No ATM in town, but lucky for us, they did have a clinic.  Spent the rest of the day walking the small towns of Fox Glacier and Franz Joseph. 

Found a wildlife center in Franz Joseph.  The only animals on site were two Rowi Kiwi birds, the rarest of the five Kiwi birds with a population of less than 400 in NZ.  Spent an absurd amount of time watching them forage for food and do whatever it is Kiwi birds do.  Learned about the history of the Kiwi in New Zealand and how the introduction of many animals by humans has led to the near elimination of the Kiwi population.  Despite efforts to eradicate or heavily monitor the number of these predators, the Kiwi numbers were dwindling too quickly so a program called Operation Nest Egg was put in place to help breed Kiwis all the while trying to better control their predators.  Side note: the bat is the only mammal indigenous to New Zealand - the - only - mammal.  Crazy!  Wildlife center also featured information about the Fox and Franz Joseph Glaciers which was all too appropriate given our plans for tomorrow.  Glaciers are fascinating. 

Otherwise, laid low.  Need to heal and stay healthy. :) 

Some random notes: NZ toilets have two different flushers - full and half - very eco friendly.  Every outlet in Tahiti and in NZ has its own switch right on the outlet - very eco friendly.  ATMS ask you to consider the environment before taking a receipt.  Many of the shopping bags are made entirely from recylced material.  Are we starting to notice a trend?!  US needs to step up!

Operation Nest Egg

Save The Kiwi

Day Fifteen - Glacier Country

Thursday, August 4th - Road Trip

Rick woke up with a tickle in his throat and as we lay down for the night we fear the worst - aches, chills, sniffles, ugh.  Maybe he's finally decompressing from the wedding but we're near three weeks out so it seems unlikely.  Maybe it's just all the travel - germs everywhere.  And today was no exception.  We spent most of the daylight and much of the evening driving - Te Anau to Queenstown and Queenstown to Franz Josef.  Covered approximately 500 kilometers and one thing is certain.  There is not an inch of this country that isn't poised for a picture every moment of every day.  Whatever the weather, sunshine, raindrops or fog, this landscape is by far the most picturesque of any we've ever seen.  In the past week we've driven over 1100 kilometers of New Zealand and at any moment we could take a picture worthy of a postcard- its absolutely remarkable. 

Due to the topography of Southland New Zealand, there are not many ways in or out of a particular place.  In fact, in many cases there is only one way in and out and this was our circumstance in Te Anau.  We had to drive southeast through Queenstown to go northwest toward Franz Josef.  So we decided to stop awhile and see the sites of this southern city.  The winter months bring snowbirds so the town was alive with skiers and snowboarders.  Definitely a worthy stop.  The rest of our drive followed the curves of any given mountainside but the nerves were worth the scenery.

Winter months coupled with high mountain tops create short days so the lights were shut a bit earlier than we would have liked and had to drive the final few hours of our journey blind.  Not sure we want to know what scenery we missed on Glacier Highway.  Crossed countless one lane bridges.  Swore they were becoming increasingly narrow - became ever grateful for our compact!  Fun fact: the large number of one lane bridges in NZ is a result of the proportion of population to necessary crossings (small population and A LOT of water to cross)!  Had to stretch those funds and this was accomplished, in part, by building narrow bridges.  By the time we found our way to Hotel Westhaven in Fox Glacier, it was after 8:30.  This is hours after most businesses, including restaurants, close in NZ.  The only vegetarian option on the menu of the only restaurant still open in Fox Glacier was the most massive basket of shoestring fries we'd ever seen - didn't finish - couldn't finish - wouldn't finish - but sometimes its fun to indulge a little especially when you have little 'choice'!  It was upon our arrival to the tavern that we realized something was wrong with Rick - he asked for a table next to the lit fireplace.  A man who sweats bullets in the cooler section of a supermarket wants to sit next to the fireplace?  Uh oh.  We never thought we'd be sleeping with a pillow shield between us on our honeymoon!  Fingers crossed that a good nights sleep will refresh his system.