Day Eleven - Pahia, NZ

Sunday, July 31st - Day of Rest

No alarm - we woke when the bodies chose.  Wandered around the little town of Paihia for awhile and enjoyed more, eye-opening, heart inspiring conversation with the locals.  Went hunting for this elusive Maori show only to find that, yet again, we'll just miss it.  As Rick so daringly pointed out when he saw raindrops outside our hotel window, we've lucked out with the weather - raining when we're leaving a place or have no plans to interrupt and sunny when we're adventuring.  He immediately knocked on wood and has assumed full blame if we begin to encounter poorly timed weather.  We have not experienced the same luck in our search for an authentic Maori performance.  It seems it runs once a week in every place we visit and that once week falls at a time of the week when we're not in town.  Fingers crossed for the South Island.  Returned to Frank's for dinner - so delicious.

Day Ten - Paihia, NZ

Saturday, July 30th - Poor Knights Island

Speechless - we are both speechless.  Today we drove to the coastal town of Tutukaka (yes, this is actually the name of the town!) to dive Poor Knights Island - rated by Jacques Cousteau as one of the top ten dive sites in the world - unique due to isolation from the mainland and converging currents that create a micro-climate.  We had to leave Paihia early.  Never knew how beautiful fog was during sunrise - a vibrant red, orange.  Sensational.  As if the landscape of Northland New Zealand wasn't stunning enough.  Upon arrival to the shop, our dive master and skipper fitted us in more gear than either of us had ever worn in preparation for the winter water.  Layers upon layers of wet suit.  It was an hour ride by boat to get to the islands.

Our first dive was at a site called Hope Point.  It was a challenging descent - strong surge.  Well, strong for us.  Had to use the kelp along the island wall to help keep our position.  Along the wall we were exposed to a lot of eel and nudie branches but it was the underwater caves that blew our mind.  The fish, thousands of them - blue maomao and demoiseles - huddled together under the lip of the cave covering the walls completely.  Steve, our dive master, brought us into two separate air pockets in which we could remove our regulator and breathe - 24 feet underwater and breathing!  Surreal, and bizarre!

On the surface, we had to strip off everything.  Too cold to wear between dives.  Amanda shook so hard she couldn't hold a cup of coffee without spilling.  Didn't feel that cold, but the shivers were unmistakable.  Hot soup was amazing.  Got a lesson in making a good cup of Milo (NZ hot chocolate) - hysterical exchange between our skipper, crew hand and a fellow diver.  Got a close up of seals baking on the rocks in the sun.  Adorable creatures.

Our second dive was at Blue Maomao Arch - the actual site that caught Jacques Cousteaus attention.  This was a magical place.  Our first objective was the underwater arch.  Oh what a place.  Thousands of fish everywhere - blue maomao on one side and two spotted demoiselles on the other - swaying back and forth with the current.  The fish here are accustom to divers and because Poor Knights is a protected Marine Reserve, they are not at risk of danger, aside from, of course, their natural predators.  For this reason, the fish allow you to swim with them, sway with them - submerge in the middle of them, as if you were one of them.  Once we'd crossed the arch, it felt as if we'd entered into another world.  It was here that we saw our first sting ray - perfectly fitting if you ask us!  Fortunately, we got to cross back through the arch to return to the boat.  We never wanted to surface.

Took a 40 minute detour on our way home - in other words, got ourselves lost.  Strangely enough, we didn't know we were lost until we'd found our way back so all was well!  It was late before we returned to Paihia.  Late in New Zealand is anytime after seven, by the way.  Lucky for us, the only place open to eat was Frank's Bar & Grill because it was awesome!  Carmelized sweet potatoe (what!), warm pumpkin chucks, bell peppers, carmelized onions, feta cheese, pumpkin seeds over greens - really?!  Ridiculous!  Not to mention the best string fries, ever!  And huge, warm pineapple chuncks on a thin crust pizza.  P.S. No sales tax on anything and no tipping is required - refusing to comply completely with the latter - doesn't feel right.

Note about driving on the other side of the car and the other side of the road, Amanda is doing better everyday!  She is not confusing the wind shield wipers with the blinker as frequently and does not have to receive reassurance from Rick before every turn about which side of the road to be on!

Myth Confirmed:  Diving Poor Knights was worth every penny!

Dive! Tutukaka

Day Nine - Paihia, NZ

Friday, July 29th - Bay of Islands

Toured the Bay of Islands to the Hole in the Rock with Dolphin Discoveries.  Found a pod of dolphins early in our voyage.  What a majestic creature.  We could watch them all day, all night, forever.  We weren't able to swim with this pod - they had a baby. :)  In New Zealand, it is illegal to swim with wild dolphins who are nurturing young under two years.  Stopped at one of only two islands in the bay that still possesses an old time farm.  The rest have been long vacated and are now under government protection as a national and historical park.  Took a hike to the top for a 360 degree view of the bay.  Side stepped sheep poop the whole way.  Stopped in the shop for a coffee and asked to buy some bread (to feed the fishies, of course!) and she refused our money.  Where are we?!  What is this place?!  You mean not everybody is in it for profit?!  Took our bread to the dock and watched as Snapper fish showed their spots of excitement!  Twinkled in the sun like stars in the moon light.

Facts learned:  Average life span of a dolphin in the wild is 50 years.  Many can live as long as 80 years in good health.  Average life span of a dolphin in captivity is 6 years.  Many factors contribute to this statistic but concrete pools damage the psyche of this intelligent animal.  Pods of dolphins come and go through the Bay of Islands staying no more than a few days.  The Bay of Islands is home to 144 islands and the Maori culture.

Walked the streets of Paihia.  Spoke with several shop owners.  Like Sergio in Bora Bora, Laene in Tahiti, and our skipper on the boat, not one of them is FROM here.  And every one of them happy.  Inspiring.

Interesting conversation with a mother of three high school daughters.  She is from South Africa but raising her family here.  She described her daughters education in Kerikeri, about 20 minutes drive from Paihia, as stimulating.  She shared with us an early memory of her girls going to school shortly after relocating to New Zealand.  She remembers all of the children running into the schoolhouse barefoot, through the mud in the rain, without a care in the world.  Children here learn to love life, love themselves and value people, not material.  These are the words of a woman who left wealth in South Africa to live in a 100 year farmhouse in New Zealand - simply and happily.

Another conversation turned us on to Alaska.  Shop owner from Holland, whose lived her fair share of places, and donated her time to para athletes one summer in Alaska.  Happiest woman - loves New Zealand.  She mistook us for Canadians - second instance of this - bubbly female, sporty guy as it was described, so we took it as a compliment!

We love New Zealand.

Myth Busted:  Not everybody cares about wealth.
Myth confirmed:  Money does not equal happiness, New Zealand does!

Dolphin Discoveries

Day Eight - Northland New Zealand

Wednesday, July 27th AND Thursday, July 28th - Travel Day

Woke up to an alarm for the first time since we left the states - got us to wondering what type of lifestyle would not necessitate such an annoying tool.  But at least this 3:30AM wake-up call was for fun - we flew to northern New Zealand today.  It was our seventh flight of the summer - Air Tahiti Nui in partnership with Qantas Air.  Personal TV screens, several movie options as well as other channels, full breakfast, cup holders, pillow and a blanket, a goodie pack containing: socks, baby wipe, head phones, sleeping mask, and ear plugs - all free!  We didn't even have to pay extra for a three checked bags and they arrived on time!  So, it appears, airlines in the US suck but not other places in the world. 

Took off on Wednesday, landed in Thursday and, no, this was not a red eye.  Lost 22 hours somewhere between Tahiti and New Zealand - bizarre.  We are officially 16 hours ahead of our Jersey home and 19 hours ahead of California.

Drove four hours from Auckland to Paihia - every mountain looks like it is posing for a postcard.  Rolling hills of green open land.  Stunning.  Oh, and they drive on the other side of the car as well as the other side of the road here!  Driving has once again become a conscious act - having to think before even making a simple turn so as not to end up head on in traffic!

We've noticed that shoes are entirely optional.  It is winter but still there are so many people, adults and children alike, parading around barefoot - not flip flops - barefoot.  Curious.

They use dollars here in New Zealand and speak English so these should ease our adjustment.  On the flip side, we took off in the warmth and landed in a chill.  It is winter on this side of the globe which didn't mean much in Tahiti but has a much greater impact in New Zealand - highs in the sixties and lows in the thirties.

Thai Garden for dinner.  Warmed the soul as well as the tummy.

Lodging at Kingsgate Hotel Autolodge.  Steps from the wharf, quick walk to shops and dining.  Heater took awhile to kick in.  Amanda used the bed to crawl up the wall so her freezing toes could be as close as possible to hot air.

Myth Busted:  All airlines gave up on customer service.

Fun new words!
Cheers
Rubbish

Bay of Islands

Day Seven - Tahiti

Tuesday, July 26th - Bye Bye, Bora Bora

Today we feel ever grateful that our trip involves several destinations.  It is our saving grace as we wave au revior to Bora Bora.  Rick's favorite moments include: diving with sharks and Giant Manta Rays, snorkeling and watching Amanda relax.  Amanda's favorite moments also include: diving with sharks and Giant Manta Rays and snorkeling but are topped with hand feeding the fish and staring at the stars in Rick's arms while listening to the lapping water beneath. 

Moments of note included the umbrella escort from the terminal to the plane in Bora Bora.  What service!  The rain definitely helped ease the pain of watching Bora Bora shrink in the distance.  Amanda decided against Dramamines to avoid the inevitable fog that follows but soon regreted this decision after a turbulent flight back to Tahiti.  A nap helped.

Tahiti is much more developed than Bora Bora but not nearly as welcoming.  We're staying the night at the Radisson Plaza Resort.  We were upgraded to a ocean front jacuzzi room - thank you Honeymoon status!  Had hopes of venturing into the market but were advised against it by hotel staff as shops close by 6pm and initiation rituals encourage young Tahitian men to involve themselves with female strangers.  We are visiting Tahiti during carnival and activity on the streets at night is high.  So, once again, we are haunted by insane dinner prices at the resort.  Rick found pizza which consisted of fresh tomato rather than tomato sauce and Amanda ate off the kids menu for lack of dietary options on the adult menu.  Watched a colorful sunset from our hotel porch.

Myth Busted:  New Jersey is NOT the only place that makes use of traffic circles.

Day Six - Bora Bora

Monday, July 25th

We had initially planned on a lagoon tour that involved snorkeling with sharks and Manta Rays but seeing as how we were lucky enough to dive with both just the day prior and in the interest of conserving pennies, we decided to lay low and do what we don't do often enough - relax.  We went back into town and learned a lot more about Bora Bora from Sergio at Nyco's, a Spanish native with an evident love of travel as displayed in his resume of international addresses that included London, Columbia, and Bora Bora just to name a few.  Tahitian locals pay the same prices as the tourists and are actually not among those in the world who distaste Americans.  Nope, they save their distaste for the French.  However, it is easier for a European to become a resident of French Polynesia than an American or Canadian.  Note: damn.  We were happy to learn that none of the property occupied by the various hotels are actually owned by the hotels themselves.  Almost every inch of property on the island is owned by local Tahitians.  Which may explain how they themselves afford these god awful prices.

A fifteen minute kayak ride, turned into an hour and a half adventure when Amanda discovered crabs all over the rocks surrounding the Hilton.  Fascinating little creatures.  Rick insisted on adding French commentary to the entire exploration.  Followed kayaking with the best snorkeling to date.  More fish than ever and in new shapes, sizes and colors.  Rick's attempt to follow a giant fish ended quickly.  Felt a few nibbles on our arms and legs as the fish hunted for the bread.  Absolutely breathtaking experience.  Fish as far as the eye could see.  We're afraid snorkeling will never be the same.  We do not ever want to leave this place.  Made sure to watch the sunset in full.  Learned that the Hilton is the only resort with a direct view.  Continued our nightly visit to Tamure.  Tried feeding large, nocturnal blue fish and buddies sausage.  Still nothing.  Experiment failed.  What do these curious fish eat?!  Both afraid to snorkel at night even with the under villa light lit, we attempted to lean over our dock and hang our snorkel mask in such a way to gain a clear view of these elusive fish.  The lapping water, which is so peaceful to listen to, causes some trouble when trying to balance a snorkel mask.  Mission not accomplished.  These fish will remain a mystery to us.  We end the night laying on our deck staring at a sky full of stars.

Myth Confirmed:  Fish are better, faster swimmers than Rick.

Day Five - Bora Bora

Sunday, July 24th - Scuba Diving

Every minute spent earning our PADI certification this spring was made worth it today.  We went diving with Bathys in two locations, Anua and Tapu.  Anua was located outside of the lagoon and it was here that we came face-to-face with two Lemon Sharks, a Reef Shark, Barracuda, Tuna, Lion Fish, and other fish, eel and coral.  Surreal.  Our second dive, in Tapu, allowed us to swim with Giant Manta Rays.  This is one beautiful, graceful creature - time stood still - an angel, of the sea.  These were our deepest dives to date and Rick's first dives in open water.  Elyse, our dive master, helped diagnose Amanda's leaky scuba mask.  Lent us one of Bathys for the second dive - not perfect but huge improvement.  Wore scuba fog the rest of the day so we soaked in some sun and true relaxation.  Spent sunset in the hot tub.  Also learned that sausage may bring bigger fish.  Note: Steal sausage from our breakfast buffet.

Bathys Diving (Top Dive) - Bora Bora

Day Four - Bora Bora

Saturday, July 23rd

We feel at home already.  Today we spent more time with our faces in a snorkel mask and tried some kayaking.  Our neighbors let us in a valuable little secret - you can feed the fish!  Which may explain why they immediately bombard you upon entering the water.  Our neighbors were even kind enough to sacrifice a bit of their bread for us to try.  We crumpled it up and were immediately encircled with fish.  Amanda discovered that if you hold the bread, they'll eat right out of your hands!  We've never experienced anything like it.  Note: Steal bread at every meal - must bring large purse!  We tried to capture the experience on one of the underwater cameras given to us by Mama Nealtay - thank you!  Fingers crossed that the photos come out clear!  Rick discovered an octopus and although we waited and watched for much time, he did not move from his rock.  We did see him change color and blink, though!  Our large nocturnal blue fish was back and this time he brought his buddies!  Tried tossing bread stolen from our pricey dinner but they were not interested.  Experiment to be continued... 

Myth Confirmed:  Stars do still exist - lots of them!
Myth Busted:  Practice makes perfect.  Despite many attempts and professional guidance, Amanda still cannot pronounce maururu without making Rick laugh.

Day Three - Bora Bora

Friday, July 22nd

Moments of note included a $75 breakfast buffet that we, fortunately, did not have to pay for.  Once again, thank you Half Board Meal Plan!  We ventured onto the main island to a town called Viatape.  Reminded us much of Costa Rica except for one thing - the prices.  Souvenirs will have to wait because $30 t-shirts are just not going to happen.  The pearls, on the other hand, deserve our attention.  Upon our return to the Hilton, we enjoyed snorkeling like none we'd ever done before - fish everywhere - in all sizes and colors, and right from the deck of our villa - AMAZING.  They come right up to you without any fear at all.  Decided to eat at the more casual of our two restaurant choices, Tamure, and it was a good move.  Still ridiculously expensive but more our style and flavor.  Note: Coconut sorbet in Bora Bora is worth the calories!  Our curiosity was sparked by a large blue colored fish that circled beneath our villa for hours tonight - wondering where he was while we were snorkeling.

Myth Busted:  Local villages are cheaper than the resorts.

Day Two - Bora Bora

Thursday, July 21st - Recovery

After three flights, eleven hours of air time, and twenty-one hours of travel our journey to French Polynesia comes to an end!  Unfortunately, the effects of the motion sickness medicine have not - damn you, Dramamine!  We're escorted from the airport, which is located on a small island all its own, to the Hilton Bora Bora Nui, by boat.  The service is remarkable.  We haven't had to carry our bags since Papeete airport.  Everyone is so freindly and welcoming.  Our overwater villa, 319, is more beautiful than imagined and equipped with everything from a private deck and ladder to the crystal blue waters of the lagoon to a hot tub bath, rainfall shower and glass floors.  We dine at Iritai and become immediately grateful that we're on the Half Board Meal Plan.  Average cost of meal for two without alcohol = $150.  We learned a few handy words in Tahitian which all seem to use despite French being the national language.  Amanda cannot pronounce maururu - brings much joy to Rick everytime she tries.  As we fell asleep to the lapping water beneath us, we reaffirmed a decision made while living at Bijou, we must find a way to live on the water.

Maururu: Tahitian for Thank You
Ia Orana: Tahitian for Hello
Nana: Tahitian for Goodbye

Myth Busted:  Pictures of Bora Bora are not digitally enhanced - the colors are every bit as vivid as in the photos.

Myth Confirmed:  Bora Bora is ungodly expensive.

Hilton Bora Bora Nui

Day Two - Tahiti

Thursday, July 21st - Arrival

Happy 50th Birthday, Mom Neatay!!!  We love you!!!

First two flights were smooth and safe - not that we were awake for any of it - thank you, Dramamine!  Flying into Tahiti was spectacular.  The water is so clear you can see the coral from the plane.  Can't wait to swim with those fishies.  Bags arrived on time - hallelujah!

Day One - Departure

Wednesday, July 20th - Day of Travel

Happy 27th Birthday, Heidi, and Happy 25th Birthday, Scorben!!!!  We love you both!!!!


And we're off!  Anticipation can be such a wonderful feeling when so much traveling awaits.  Moments of note for the commencement of our long voyage to Bora Bora included a feeling of being a foreigner before even departing LAX.  English was not high on the list of languages spoken in the International Terminal.  And we were equally surprised to see that their busiest hours are in the middle of the night.


Myth Busted:  All 11:40PM flights are peaceful and quiet.
Myth Confirmed:  LAX is a monstrously large airport.